Dog Training Articles
By Beth Bradley
For more information
about Beth Bradley, read her resume by clicking this link.
Index to articles:
Agility
Setting
Boundaries & Being the Pack the Leader
The
Blame Game
Building Drive Through Corrections
Barking
Clear
Communication
Consistency in Handling
Constructive Play
Chewing
Dog Attention
Dogs Are Creatures of Habit
Dominant Dogs
Drop It
Exercise and Mental Stimulation
House Leash
Housebreaking Tips
How and When to Praise and Correct
How To Pick a Trainer
It's
All About Obedience
Jumping
Motivating With a Backtie
Nuisance
Behavior
Nutrition
Off-Leash Training
Positive Training vs. Compulsion
Problem Solving and Getting Back to Basics
Proper Use of Training Equipment
Protection/Aggression
(Controlling and Training Your Bodyguard)
Stress and Behavioral Problems
Training Aggressive Dogs
Training and Trial Preparation
Training Tips for Aggression and
Dominance
Training Your Puppy To Be a Dog You Can Live With
Treat Your Dog Like A Dog
Types of Collars
How To Pick The Right Training Collar For
Your Dog
The
Vision of the Dog
The
Walk
Watch Your Tone
What's In a Name
What
is Dog Training?
Working
In Drive
For answers to frequently asked questions visit our Training Q&A page
Dog’s love to play! So make your play session into a training session. Make sure you are in a fenced area for safety. Play ball or Frisbee and while your dog is chasing it (either in air or in your hand) give him a command (i.e. sit). Be sure the object is still when you command. Once your dog responds, verbally reward and throw the object. If your dog ignored your request, give him a verbal correction and repeat your command, repeat until your dog responds (i.e. “No – Sit – No – Sit”. It may take some time but your dog will realize he gets what he wants, when you get what you want. Once your dog responds to sit immediately move on to down, come, heel, etc.
This way you can still allow the dog to have a good time and play but he realizes that there are rules. If your dog habitually ignores your request, then I would put a correction collar on him and a long line and be prepared to follow up on your verbal correction with a physical correction.
Your dog must know how to play with you, this is important for all training down the road. He must want to interact with you than anyone else, especially another dog. 98% of my clients don’t know what motivates their dog, how to play the way their dog wants or how to motivate him. Before you begin training, understand your dog and how to play. And don’t be afraid to do more playing than training, it will be worth it in the long run.
TYPES OF COLLARS
Nylon Collar: This is a choke and release
collar but must be put on correctly. Great for dogs who are sensitive and do
not require many or harsh corrections. Do not use on a dog that takes many
corrections or a hard correction because prolonged use like this may cause
trachea or esophagus problems as the dogs gets older. A nylon collar
works much better than a chain choke collar because there is no sound when the
collar is tighten on the dog's neck. This collar should fit snuggly going over
the top of your dog’s head. Once the collar is on the dog and the leash
attached, pull on the collar so it is tight, there should only be about ¾-1 inch
of excess collar.
Pinch or Prong Collar: The correction simulates the way another dog's correction would feel. As a correction is given the collar "bites" (pinches) the dog in the neck, as another dog would do. Perfect for strong dogs that take hard corrections or many corrections. This collar is more humane for dog’s that take many corrections because one correction will solve the problem versus 10 corrections (or more) on a nylon or chain choke. It does not choke the dog and will not cause trachea or esophagus problems. The tighter the collar is on the dog's neck, the stronger the pinch. I recommend using tips for shorthaired dogs that may show scrapes on his or her neck after a correction. This collar is also good for someone not physically able to correct their dog the way he or she needs to be.
Electronic Collars: Great for a dog that is ‘leash wise’ and knows when he is off the leash or for a dog that requires a harder correction (may be used in conjunction w/ a pinch collar). The correction is always a consistent correction because a hand held remote controls the correction. Most collars start out with a least 5 levels of correction – the more expensive models can have up to 75 levels of correction. The correction begins at 1/10 of a second (a tickle) and can extend up to the amount of time the remote button is held in. This type of correction is never physical so the dog does not see you as getting heavy handed with him. Perfect for off leash control or for aggressive dogs that retaliate when corrected. I have felt the electric collar and it is a shock but remember dogs have hide and not skin so they don’t feel the correction as we would. The correction is similar to static electricity. It works the same way as an invisible fence but you are in charge of when the dog is corrected.
Bark Collars: Same as the electric collar but the correction is given based on the movement of the dog’s vocal cords. Again, the correction can be as low or as high as needed. Great for uncontrolled barking when you are unable to correct.
It doesn’t matter what type of collar you choose, the important fact is that the dog responds to the correction and learns from it and that your reward/praise more than makes up for the correction.
“The length of time during which information is being retained depends upon on how much the dog was impressed by the stimulating experience." Schellenberg
HOW TO PICK THE RIGHT TRAINING COLLAR FOR YOUR DOG
Many trainers get caught up in using a certain collar or method of training. My philosophy is that each dog is different so I adapt my training according to each dog’s personality. Three things are very important when training: (1) that your dog understands why he is being corrected and rewarded and (2) the reward more than makes up for the correction and (3) that the correction immediately stops the unwanted behavior but does not cause the dog to become introverted or afraid. I have written articles on types of collars, reward vs. compulsion and when to praise and correct (please read those articles on this web page). I have explained the different collars and their uses with all of my clients and why I would choose a specific collar for their dog but the questions are always the same: “Will this hurt my dog?”. I don’t want to hurt anyone’s dog, let alone my own dogs, but I need the unwanted behavior to stop immediately to avoid the dog getting into bad habits. Some bad habits may actually hurt the dog (i.e. not coming when called).
I have used and continue to use Nylon Choke Collars, Pinch/Prong Collars, Electric Collars and Bark Collars. Each one has its’ own benefits but each one is not appropriate for all dogs. Some dogs may begin on a certain collar and after training or maturing may have to switch to another collar.
The collar I hear the most negative comments about is the Electronic Collar. This collar, I feel, is the least harmful of all the training collars. The Electronic Collar does not choke, it is not physical on the handler’s part, it will not mark a dog’s neck, the correction is always consistent with each handler in the house, it is not heavy, it can be felt by your dog even if your dog is far away, it is safe to have in the rain or when swimming, has a very light correction and can be ‘dialed up’ to a harder correction if needed and this collar is reasonably priced. Yes, many owners do not know how to use them or over correct but that is with any collar. I will use it for a dog that is ‘leash wise’ and knows when he is off the leash; or for a dog that requires a harder correction than I am able to give; and always when I am training for aggression (human or animal) because the correction is never physical. Many times, when training aggression, the dog sees a leash correction as the handler getting physical and may retaliate against the handler for such. With the Electric correction, I am only pressing a button; therefore, my mannerisms are very calm. If I am calm when a dog is being aggressive then the dog will naturally calm down, if I am loud or physical, it will encourage the dog that he needs to be loud and physical. The dog may become aggressive with me at that point or take it out on the other animal in retaliation for the correction.
When it comes to hurting the dog, I feel the Electronic Collar is the safest because the correction feels like static electricity and there is no short term or long term trauma that could be caused to the dog. Many people actually choke or move the dog with hard corrections, obviously causing pain in the neck/shoulders. Many large men will not even work with a small breed for fear of ‘ripping its head off’. That could never happen with an Electronic Collar. It doesn’t matter if the dog lunges toward something, you can’t physically hurt his neck or back with this collar. I would exclusively use this type of collar with dogs that have esophagus or trachea damage, a neck or disc problem in the back, some smaller breeds with respiratory problems, obviously for dog that do not listen off leash, very strong dogs that take a hard correction and aggression.
The only training device I do not like for TRAINING is the head halter. This will stop your dog from pulling but only because he cannot pull. It does not teach your dog attention or any commands, it just stops him from doing what he wants to do. I like using the halter if I am trying to teach a dog to lift his head and look into my face for heeling or attention if he cannot understand the concept with out such help. Other than that, it is not a teaching aid.
It doesn’t matter what type of collar you choose, the important fact is that the dog responds to the correction and learns from it and that your reward/praise more than makes up for the correction.
BUILDING DRIVE THROUGH CORRECTIONS
Most dogs react negatively
to corrections because that is how they are taught to react. I teach my
dogs to react positively to corrections by using praise, play and food.
Initially, when giving a correction for
misbehavior, I teach my dog that he should expect praise, play and or food
immediately after a correction by making sure that is exactly what he
receives. Then instead of sulking after corrections he gets excited by it.
Then as the dog is learning – I delay the time that he would receive praise,
play or food by waiting for him to respond correctly after the correction
and then rewarding w/ praise and play or food. The delay should begin in
5-second intervals, then 10 second, till the dog is waiting and paying
attention for 1 minute before praise and food/play. Then the dog learns
that correct behaviors illicit a play/food response from his owner.
Some dogs have a higher play drive than food and would rather play than
eat. Each dog is different and it is up to you to figure out what motivates
your dog. Hopefully, your dog is a well-balanced dog will work for food or play.
Also, don’t use the training equipment only when the dog is behaving badly.
Let him wear his training collar and leash when you have no intention of
training/correcting. Don’t allow your dog to get collar wise/leash wise by
only putting the collar and or leash on him when he is behaving badly or
when you are going to train with him.
Consideration, Anticipation, Preparation: Consider what your dog is going to do. Anticipate his reaction, and be prepared to correct him for misbehavior." Schellenberg
A skillful trainer will, of course, discourage (option 1) by making that choice even more unpleasant, and he will encourage (option 2) by immediately rewarding the dog for desirable behavior." Schellenberg
HOW AND WHEN TO PRAISE AND CORRECT
I believe training should be 95% praise and 5% correction. Your correction should immediately stop unwanted behavior and strong enough to make an impression on your dog. The type of correction depends upon the dog (read positive v. compulsion training). Correction should come immediately when the dog does something wrong along with a verbal correction. Then you should immediately repeat the command to your dog (I.E. “No – leash correction – Sit”).
Most of my clients do not praise enough. Praise should be given for good behavior as an acknowledgement of what you want (mark the behavior. Usually I will praise and repeat the command (i.e. “good sit”). Praise can also be given when your dog is trying, or as reassurance for confusion or stress. Praise should also double the amount of correction. If you give a leash correction and then repeat the command, once your dog responds to the command you should have a ‘party’ for the dog, play, throw his toy reward with a lot of food, etc. Don’t just say good boy and make him repeat it again. His obedience to your command after the correction was an invitation to celebrate.
All behavior must be acknowledged and marked verbally and physically if needed either with praise or correction. If it is clear to your dog what you want and what you like while training then training is black and white to your dog with no confusion and your dog should always respond.
TRAINING THE DOMINANT DOG
Sometimes dominant
dogs are born dominant and sometimes owners unknowingly teach their dogs to be
dominant. Dominant dogs need to be taught their place in your family and need
to be taught that you (the human) are the leader and the dog is a pack member.
The dominant dog needs to be taught that it must listen to your commands no
matter what the distraction or where it is. A pack dog always listens to the
Alpha (or leader) because it is natural dog behavior. A pack dog that does not
listen to the Alpha is challenging the Alpha dog and will be severely punished
for doing so. Through obedience (and major repetition) you should be able to
teach your dog to focus on you, its Alpha. This way the dog will understand he is
being corrected for not paying attention to you. In the world of dogs, the
“Alpha” is the decision maker. The “Alpha” protects the pack and its territory
and is the first in line when eating. Another dog in the pack that does so is
challenging the “Alpha” for that leadership position. Don’t allow your dog to
think he is “Alpha” and that it is his job. If you give your dog a command, he
will believe you are taking control of the situation. If your dog has
confidence in your ability as “Alpha”, he will always obey your commands because
doing so shows respect to the “Alpha”. Once your dog has confidence in your
ability to be “Alpha”, then he will trust your judgment under any situation. An
Alpha is only challenged if the dog feels that he might win. Your dog must
never feel he can win, if he wins once, he will challenge again.
Training will make your dog understand that he is not the leader, you are. The “Alpha” greets visitors, protects and eats first. And you are the “Alpha”. This is not a 5-week training program. For some dogs it takes months for them to have confidence in you as their “Alpha”. You may not see results immediately but private and group training will desensitize your dog and make him realize his position in your family. He will gladly allow you to become his “Alpha” if you show initiative and tell him what he should be doing. In the world of dogs, respect needs to be earned and you will constantly be challenged for that leadership position.
Never let a dominant dog on the furniture, bed or other. This tells him that he is your equal. Treat him like a dog so he doesn’t get confused and believe he can take liberties. Take food and toys from him like an Alpha dog would. Never let him pull in front on a walk (the Alpha dog always leads the pack). To show leadership, train your dog every day. Basic dog obedience teaches the dog he must listen to his Alpha. If you have children, work the dog with them so he realizes he must also listen to them also (all humans in the family should be Alpha).
Practice with your dog in as many new environments as you can. Pick a new area each time you train. This builds reliability in training and teaches your dog he must listen to his Alpha no matter where he is. If you only train your dog in your yard, your dog is only going to listen in your yard. Train at your Veterinarian’s office parking lot, at the supermarket, the park, etc. Pick a new area, once your dog is responding consistently in that area go to another area. In a couple of weeks you will have 4-5 different areas where your dog is training and listening to your commands.
Once your dog is responding in different areas use different distractions. Begin with minimum distractions (i.e. training late at night when not many people are around) and then work your way up to more and more distractions.
·
YOU MUST HAVE A CRATE
·
Divide your crate so it is only big enough for the dog to lie down
and turn around
·
Use Crate at night and when you cannot supervise
·
All other times, keep the dog on a leash at your side
·
Feed at specific times each day (i.e. 9 AM, 12 PM, 5PM) if you
miss a feeding time, skip it until next meal. By the time your dog is 4 ½ or 5
months old he should be eating only 2 times per day. If you give treats and
cookies throughout the day – that could interfere with the times he has bowel
movements.
·
Keep food and water down for 5 minutes and then remove EVEN IF
YOUR DOG DID NOT EAT OR DRINK
·
Give the puppy water only when eating or after extensive exercise
if panting. DO NOT LEAVE WATER DOWN ALL DAY LONG FOR THE DOG TO DRINK AND DO
NOT LEAVE FOOD OR WATER IN THE CRATE WHEN YOU ARE NOT AT HOME.
·
Feed the puppy in his crate. Clean dogs will not mess where they
eat and/or sleep.
·
Keep a written daily time log of bowel movements and urination
times; even if it is an accident. After 4 or 5 days, of specific
feeding/watering times, you should be able to figure out your dog’s schedule.
Take your dog outside prior to the scheduled times.
·
If your dog is newspaper trained, keep soiled newspaper outside
for him to smell to encourage him go to the bathroom. If your dog is not paper
trained, do not clean up his bowel movement each and every time. Leave
something outside for him to smell.
·
Use a command in a quiet tone while he is going to the bathroom
(i.e. “Hurry up”) and do not play with him before hand. Play after he has gone
to the bathroom.
·
Encourage him with quiet praise and a treat after he goes to the
bathroom (every other time use a treat).
·
If your dog will not go to the bathroom outside or wants to play,
bring him inside for 5 minutes and put him in the crate, then take him outside
again.
·
If you have a fenced in yard, leave him outside by himself but
watch through the window that he does go to the bathroom.
·
Do not scold your dog if he has an accident in front of you. This
will make him afraid to go to the bathroom outside in front of you.
·
If your dog has an accident in your home, clean with a
disinfectant dog cleaner.
·
You will have to take your puppy outside in the middle of the
night for a little while so keep his crate in your bedroom so you can hear him
whimper in the middle of the night.
|
·
He may cry at first in the crate…let him work through it….but
allow him to sleep in your room, he will feel more comfortable with you close
by.
·
You may need to give your dog a lot of exercise prior to bedtime
in order for him to sleep through the night. REMEMBER… A TIRED. PUPPY IS A GOOD
PUPPY.
·
Play with your feeding schedule also…some dogs have a bowel
movement immediately after eating, some do not. Try and feed the last meal to
get your puppy through the night. Whether that means feeding early so he has a
bowel movement before bedtime or later because he sleeps better on a full
stomach.
·
Most dogs have to go to the bathroom after playtime, eating,
sleeping, excitement, etc. It is up to you to write down his schedule and
understand your own dog.
-
Each dog is different, each dog has a different metabolism and the size of his or her bladder is different. KNOW YOUR DOG!
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If you play with your dog or walk him outside, allow him time to go to the bathroom again before you bring him inside.
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Some dogs do not relieve themselves completely when taken out. YOU MUST KNOW YOUR DOG. Some dogs urinate, play and then have a bowel movement. Some need to have 2 bowel movements. If they urinate outside and then come inside and go again...then you need to allow your dog to have 2 times to urinate before bringing him inside. Or if you bring him in, place him in the crate, wait 3-5 minutes and bring him out again. A puppy’s attention span is small so you must learn his habits.
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If you are on a tight feeding/watering schedule and your dog still is not on a bathroom schedule, be sure no one is giving him extra food or water. Check with your Vet to be sure he is worm free and that he is healthy.
Initially, you are the one being trained. So keep a tight schedule
The use of a back tie is a great motivational tool for a dog because it frustrates him. It builds great drive and attention to you as the handler. You can use it for all commands, teaching a send away, dumbbell motivation, stays, etc.
Tie your dog on a 10-15 foot leash to something sturdy using a buckle collar or leash. Take him to the end of the line so he doesn’t correct himself. Tease your dog with a tug (jute roll) by throwing the toy back and forth, kick it with your foot. Once the dog is excited, remove him from the back tie and hold him back so he CAN NOT reach the toy. Tease again by kicking the toy with your foot and then either pick up the toy or allow your dog to get it (almost like he is stealing it from you). Get the toy back if you allowed him to steal it and then begin attention heeling. You can do the same thing with Sit and Down, except keep your dog tied while you are commanding. Once he responds verbally praise and reward him by allowing him to ‘catch’ the tug.
When I am working with a dog and he needs a hard correction, I will do it on the back tie first. This way instead of losing drive because of the correction, drive is built because of the tug toy and play. You can add heavy corrections and not lose drive. The back tie is also something you can put your dog back on in the middle of a training session, to bring your dog up or before an exercise your dog doesn’t like or to build drive and because of hard corrections. If I am working with a dog that had a bad session the day before with, for example, Motion exercises, the following day I would do the same but on the back tie. The back tie puts the Motion exercises back in a good light because the back tie is associated with fun.
You can always end with a back tie also, tease your dog, run the toy back to your vehicle or home and then come back and release your dog leaving him frustrated. Always end with your dog wanting more.
POSITIVE TRAINING vs COMPULSION
There are two theories of thinking: (1) all dogs can be trained through positive motivation only and (2) no training can be successful without some form of punishment. I agree with the second statement. No training can be 100% positive because all dogs test to see how much they can get away with. The difference is the amount or type of compulsion that is necessary. To some dogs a stern voice is compulsion enough, other dogs may require a stronger form of correction. The definition of compulsion depends upon the dog and his sensitivity.
The most important step of training is to be 100% certain that your dog understands what you want from him, if your dog is confused or stressed, he is almost certainly going to make mistakes and it is not disobedience. In order to do this you must acknowledge or mark good behavior, this reassures the dog and does not leave him wondering if he is doing a good job. You can acknowledge his good behavior with praise and a reward of some type, food or ball or toys. Your dog’s reward should be his most favorite thing. When your dog misbehaves or is disobedient, you must immediately reprimand him verbally and with some type of compulsion if necessary. The correction should immediately stop the disobedience. If your dog returns to this behavior, then your correction was not meaningful enough. If the verbal correction is enough and your dog does not return to the disobedient behavior, then there is no reason to physically correct; but if your dog does return to being disobedient, you didn’t make a big enough impression on him. It doesn’t matter what method of compulsion you use as long as your dog responds, respects and learns from the correction.
STRESS AND BEHAVIORAL PROBLEMS
I believe 95% of all behavioral problems stem from one of three areas: (1) lack of physical and mental stimulation, (2) early puppy/house training and (3) unrealistic expectations from the owner.
Lack of Physical/Mental Stimulation
Dogs are working animals but through domestication and modern technology they are no longer worked. Home alone for 8 hours followed by a walk around the neighborhood or a run in the yard is not enough physical or mental stimulation. Dogs need exercise (walks, swimming, retrieving) but your dog would much rather exercise with you than by itself in your yard.
But exercise with no mental stimulation will make your dog crazy. The working instinct in your dog demands for it to use its brain. If you don't allow your dog to use its brain for good behavior, you can believe it will use it for bad behavior or strange behavior. Types of negative behavior I have seen are: aggression, dominance, animal aggression, fear of everything, excessive barking, jumping, chewing, spinning in circles, excessive licking of themselves, diarrhea, destructiveness, digging, chewing their own tails/feet, hair loss or bad coats, dermatitis, excessive weight gain and lack of attention.
Obedience not only teaches your dog self-control but also allows it to think and respond, i.e. using its mind/work. Teaching your dog anything from tricks to simple obedience commands gives it an outlet and allows thought processes to over-ride negative behavior.
I believe a dog needs a minimum of 40 minutes to 1 hour of exercise (retrieve, running, etc.) a day and a ½ hour of training a day. All exercise or all work will not control negative behavior. A happy medium of both will make your dog happy and well adjusted.
Housebreaking
The first thing a dog learns is housebreaking. This is the basis for your dog’s future attitude towards training. Negative housebreaking will lead to a negative attitude throughout life and lead to unneeded stress. I never housebreak a puppy. My puppies are crate trained (in a crate when I can not supervise) or kenneled outside in my yard when I am unable to supervise so he/she can eliminate whenever needed. This way there is no unneeded stress placed upon the puppy by the owners. I would never allow even a 2-year-old dog of mine to have free run of my house. A 2-year-old is still young and I never want to stress my dog when there is a way I can avoid it. Even if you do not yell or hit your dog when he/she eliminates in your home, your body language and attitude show the stress and your dog picks up on it. If you ask people who own dogs with the negative behaviors that I mentioned above, most will say they had a difficult time housebreaking their dog.
Keep it simple: if your dog is eliminating in your home – use a crate or the outdoors when you are unable to supervise. Always put your dog and yourself in a position to win or solve a problem.
Unrealistic Expectations
When you adopt or buy a puppy/dog and bring it into your home, it is important that you remember to treat it like a dog. Some behavioral problems have to do with genetics (and can be controlled early on) but most are learned from the owners. If your dog is exhibiting some unwanted behavior, it is the time to analyze how you treat him. Yes, your dog is part of your family but when dealing with him treat him like a dog (like his mother would) not a human. They don’t think like humans and they don’t feel like humans. Don’t try to associate how you feel with how they should feel – its not the same. My dogs are my family and I would protect them and defend them till my own death but I treat them like dogs. Treating your dog like a human leads to stress. Your dog should feel that you love him but that you are the master and his leader not his equal. Stress results from when you expect your dog to:
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listen to obedience commands when you hardly ever work him
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know that he can only eliminate outdoors
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know when someone is welcome in your home rather than a stranger
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know that he can jump on you but not your grandmother
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know that he can ‘play bite’ you but not your 2-year-old son
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know that he should immediately respond to the command ‘come’ but it’s not important to respond immediately to the command ‘sit
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expect him to sit at home all day long and not want your attention when you come home from work
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know when to protect his house and territory and when not to
These are unrealistic expectations that your dog should not have to live up to. In a pack environment the alpha makes the decisions – YOU MUST BE ALPHA and make all decisions. Decision making is stressful and leads to negative behavior. Before you act or react, give your dog a command – give him something to do. Don’t allow him to react on his own, for example: give him the command sit/stay when opening your front door or car door.
If your dog does not believe you are ‘in command’ or the ‘alpha’, he will make his own decisions and they will be negative. You are in charge. My dogs are stress free because I make all decisions – the only thing my dogs have to think about is the command I gave them and that they need to respond.
Unfortunately, this is your dog’s temperament. But the good news you can control it, not eradicate the aggression. Sometimes shy dogs act aggressive to ward away the object that is frightening them but don’t really want to harm the object, other times there is a bite. Aggressive dogs, on the other hand, hold a certain ‘prejudice’ towards strangers (animal or human). In my opinion, no dog that is shy can be taught to be outgoing, nor can an aggressive dog be taught to be friendly. BUT, a dog can be taught to ignore the fear or the object (human or animal) that it wants to be aggressive towards. Through obedience (and major repetition) you should be able to teach your dog to focus on you, its “Alpha” (or leader), rather than “the Object” (human or animal). This way your dog will understand he is being corrected for not paying attention to your commands rather than being corrected for being afraid or having a distrust of people. In the world of dogs, the “Alpha” is the decision maker. The “Alpha” protects the pack and its territory. Another dog in the pack that does so is challenging the “Alpha” for that leadership position. Don’t allow your dog to think he is “Alpha” and that it is his job. Give your dog a command and he will believe you are taking control of the situation and he doesn’t have to. If your dog has confidence in your ability as “Alpha,” he will always obey your commands because doing so shows respect to the “Alpha”. Aggressive dogs believe they are “Alpha” until you prove them wrong, and shy dogs don’t want to be “Alpha” it actually causes them too much stress. Once your dog has confidence in your ability to be “Alpha” then he will trust your judgment under any situation and allow strangers in your home.
My recommendation would be private training and then possibly group classes. NEVER ALLOW YOUR DOG TO MEET ANYTHING HE IS AGGRESSIVE TOWARDS. He doesn’t have to like anyone, he only has to ignore them and obey your commands. Tell your guests to ignore him, always keep him on a leash and under a command and NEVER TRUST HIM. YOU NEVER KNOW WHAT ANY DOG IS GOING TO DO. He may be part of your family but he is a dog. Treat him like a dog and he’ll know what is expected from him. Without strict leadership the training will not work
Remember that this is not basic obedience; you are making him control his aggression not become ‘Lassie’. Your dog has the potential to hurt someone. HE BELIEVES HE IS THE LEADER OF HIS PACK and that he is doing his job. You are going to have to be tough and make him realize it is not his job to protect you and that you are not flattered by this behavior.
TRAINING TIPS FOR AGGRESSIVE & DOMINANT DOGS
Most aggressive and dominant dogs are spoiled and do not believe they are dogs. In order to change their temperament, we have to change their idea of themselves and where they fit in your household.
· Your dog must stay off all furniture (only humans and leaders are allowed up).
· He cannot sleep in your bedroom.
· Feed him after the family has eaten (even if it is later than usual); the leader always eats first.
· Never initiate affection or petting, make him respond to a command first.
· Always initiate play time, don’t allow your dog to control you and when he wants to play.
· Do not pet or praise him unless you are training. Ignore them the other times so he understands your life doesn’t surround around him and training is something good.
· Only allow play outside. Teach him to be calm in the house so when people are visiting he will not get too excited.
· The Down stay is a calming exercise and will teach him to be calm. Your dog should Down/stay for 30 – 45 minutes a session. Always do a Down/stay when you eating, watching TV or reading the paper.
· For the first month of training be tough until he realizes that he is not going to get away with anything. This is important. Teach him when to play and when to work. If you allow him to go back to old habits the training will not work.
· Each command must be followed up with a correction if your dog doesn’t respond to it. Don’t let him think he is going to get away with double commands.
· Your correction should be strong enough to stop the behavior for that training session. If your dog repeats the action, the correction was not strong enough and the respect has not been given to you. If your dog thinks that he is only going to receive a light correction, he will attempt to get away with the misbehavior again.
· NEVER ALLOW YOUR DOG TO MEET ANYTHING HE IS AGGRESSIVE TOWARDS. He doesn’t have to like anyone he only has to ignore them and obey your commands. If people aggressive, tell your guests to ignore him, always keep him on a leash and under a command and NEVER TRUST HIM. YOU NEVER KNOW WHAT A FRIGHTENED DOG IS GOING TO DO. He may be part of your family but he is a dog. Treat him like a dog and he’ll know what is expected from him. Without strict leadership and dominance the training will not work
· Remember that this is not basic obedience. Your dog has the potential to cause big problems. Nip it in the bud. Think of this training as boot camp. YOU MUST FOLLOW THROUGH AND BE TOUGH AT HOME. HE BELIEVES HE IS THE LEADER OF HIS PACK. YOU HAVE NOT PROVEN TO HIM THAT YOU ARE HIS LEADER. EXTREME TRAINING IS NEEDED AT THIS POINT. DON’T BABY HIM. HE IS A DOG.
· Your dog may initially be depressed--tough. He must realize he is the dog of the house
TRAINING AND TRIAL PREPARATION
Too many times I have heard the same statement, “but I can’t do that in the ring”. That is why it is called TRAINING. Training builds good habits and dogs are creatures of habit. If you allow your dog to get away with something during training, he will certainly believe he can get away with the same thing in a trial. For instance, lagging, moving during the stand, no stays, slow recalls, etc., you should be prepared for these bad habits in training, be prepared to correct for these bad habits and distinguish them before you get into a trial situation. Don’t test your dog to see if he will respond, let the judge test your dog.
Some people use food, I use a toy. Can I use a toy in a trial? NO, but I have established good habits so by the time I get to trial the bad habit is gone. And the dog never receives the reward at the same time during training so he cannot be conditioned to a treat for every recall or sit. Whether you use an electric collar, pinch, nylon or chain, don’t remove it till you walk into the trial. Be consistent with punishment and reward.
PAC: Preparation, Anticipation and Consideration: Be Prepared for misbehavior, Anticipate problems and Consider what how you can avoid the problems.
Common Problems:
Breaks on a Recall: That is a staying issue, back tie your dog and correct. Practice the recall from motion only and continue to do so until TRIAL.
Moves on the Stand: Walk straight to your dog and flip to his side, don’t go around behind him till you are in TRIAL
Sit during Stand: Keep your leash around your dog until TRIAL
Breaks Stays: Back tie and use imaginative distractions until TRIAL
Lags on Heel or breaks heel: Use a handle leash on your dog, an electric collar or a reward and continue to do so until TRIAL.
I can go on through each phase with problems and it comes down to being prepared, anticipating and considering. Maybe your dog is confused, distracted, whatever, good training will help him avoid problems.
Some dogs have problems in new areas without distractions. That is because the NEW AREA IS A DISTRACTION. If that is the case, take baby steps in that new area and then once the dog is proficient in that area with distractions, off to another new area but again take baby steps. You may have to ‘spoon feed’ him and act like he has never learned the exercise before: THAT IS BETTER THAN ALLOWING A MISTAKE TO HAPPEN. And if you are not going to a new place to train at least 2 times a week, you shouldn’t even be considering entering a trial.
Don’t test your dog; anticipate he is going to make a mistake so you can correct him for it. If he is allowed to make that mistake one time in training, you can bet your life he will do it in the ring. Your dog’s only test should be during the trial, under a judge…not in your yard or at the park or in class.
If you are preparing to trial your dog, you should be keeping a log book of your practice sessions, what you trained, where you trained and what problems occurred. You don’t have to practice the whole routine each time you train, I wouldn’t recommend it because your dog will get bored, but write it down anyway so you know the next time you train what your problems were the previous time. And then if your trainer reads the book they may be able to help you also.
Motivation comes about for 2 reasons (1) the desire to get something (reward) and (2) the desire to avoid something (punishment). Both can be considered ‘motivational training and positive’ because if your dog responds and there is not punishment…its all positive.
In conclusion, don’t just train your dog, make sure it’s good training, good training to build and create good habits.
Most of the complaints are the same: Fido doesn't come when called; he just wants to play when he sees another dog, he chases squirrels, he doesn't understand hand signals or he doesn't look at me, etc. Contrary to popular belief it is not that he is not responding to commands, but that he is not paying attention. Dog Attention is the first exercise taught and the first exercise forgotten. All problems are the result of lack of the dog's attention. If he were paying attention to you he wouldn't chase the squirrel. Your dog shouldn't just go through the motions; his eyes should be on you never knowing whether to expect another command or an 'Okay'. If you need to use food or a ball to initially get your dog to look into your face, that's fine but your dog must realize that if his attention strays, there is going to be a correction.
Most people don't know when to praise or feed the dog during an Attention exercise. In the beginning the praise comes immediately, then the praise comes later demanding his attention for a longer period of time. But not only does the praise come immediately, correction must come as soon as the dog takes his attention off of you.
Attention must be practiced every day and distractions should be added as the dog responds better. The more training you do with your dog, the better attention you should expect.
Remember, if you don't have time for training, at least save some time for attention-every day. Your dog must realize he must give you his undivided attention whenever asked, under any conditions.
Consistency in handling is an important key to successful training. Be consistent with your commands and the way in which you command. Do not say "down" one day and "lie down" another, this will confuse your dog.
Remember that you cannot expect perfection in one exercise and less than perfection in another. For example, expecting a perfect recall all the time, under any circumstance but a less than perfect heel. Maybe a perfect heel is not important but 'come' is very important to you. How is your dog to know what is more important? Response to commands depends upon your dogs attention not that one command is more important than the other is. Your dog must learn that he must respond to the command immediately and precisely otherwise you are teaching your dog that he can decide when to respond and with what accuracy he can respond.
Consistency in corrections is important also. A physical or verbal correction should immediately stop the bad behavior. If you are consistently effective with your corrections your dog will never try and get away with anything. But a dog that receives light corrections sometimes and tough corrections other times is willing to take the chance because he may not receive a hard correction that particular day. Be consistent with the type of equipment you use also. Whether you use a nylon collar, a pinch or an electric use it consistently. For example, do not put an electric collar on your dog for one day only. Your dog will learn the difference between an electric and pinch. Better to use the collars in conjunction with one another.Dogs are creatures of habit and learn through repetition. In the beginning training sessions should be kept short in order not to bore the dog or you. Once your dog knows many commands your practice sessions should be 20 minutes to 1/2 hour long. Create different routines in order to avoid boredom and mechanical routines.
Practice with your dog in as many new environments as you can. Even if you only train your dog twice a week, both training sessions should be in a different area, i.e. park, parking lot, school yard. Pick a new area each time you train. This builds reliability in training. If you only train your dog in your yard or at the training hall your dog is only going to listen in your yard or the training hall. Train at your Veterinarian's office parking lot, at the supermarket, the park, etc. Pick a new area, once your dog is responding consistently in that area go to another area. In a couple of weeks you will have 4-5 different areas where your dog is training and listening to your commands.
Once your dog is responding in different areas use different distractions. Begin with minimum distractions (i.e. training late at night when not many people are around) and then work your way up to more and more distractions. But remember, still demand for your dog to pay attention.
This will not only teach your dog to pay attention and listen to you in many areas but will make your dog more reliable and calm at home or when you are away from home and vacationing with your dog. Dogs also learn bad behavior/disobedience and that too can become habit forming. It takes humans a full 30 days to break a bad habit, and sometimes it’s not broken for good. It takes dogs at least 4 months to break their bad habits but it is up to you to make sure they are not able to complete the bad habit by (1) making it difficult to complete and (2) making sure your dog believes there is going to be punishment for the bad habit.Not only is it important to be consistent in the commands that you use but the tone in which you command is important also. Dogs communicate to each other by the use of body language and verbal growls or barks. A growl is a very quick and quiet sound coming from deep in the dog's stomach. This tells another dog to stop immediately or there will be repercussions.
When giving your dog a verbal command you should use one word and say it in a quick and serious manner. This way your command will resemble a growl and your dog will respond quickly. Most people either command as if they are begging their dog to respond to the command, or the famous singing of commands (SSSIIITTT).
Women must learn to speak with a deeper tone (probably why dogs listen to their masters quicker than their mistresses) but not with volume. A growl from another dog is never loud, remember, it’s from the stomach. Use volume for emergencies only, your dog can hear your commands he chooses not to listen.
But don't let your bark be worse than your bite. If your dog does not immediately respond follow up with a correction. If your dog is making the same mistakes and he knows the exercise, then the consequence to disobedience is not a deterrent. You must then step up the level of correction and praise immediately for the correct behavior.
What's in a Name
Your dog's name is an invitation to move with you or towards you. Only use your dog's name during motion exercises i.e. Come, Heel, etc. Never use your dog's name during a stay command or non-motion exercises; i.e. sit, down. When a dog hears his name he will naturally move towards you or with you.
House Leash
I firmly believe no dog should ever be off the leash (indoors and outdoors) until it is 1 year old (including potty time) or proven it will almost never disobey. Puppies (until 1 yr. old) are constantly testing their owners and if proven that maybe they can get away with it they will try and disobey. The leash is your way of controlling your dog's behavior, take it off and you lose control (its like driving without a steering wheel). This is called a house leash and will make your dog understand he can never disobey. Off leash problems occur when owners test their dogs to see if they will listen. While still a pup the owner will tell the dog to come, the dog will look at them like they are crazy and understand that when he is off the leash there is no correction and their master cannot control the dog's behavior.
Basic common sense, if the dog's is not responding perfectly on leash what makes you think he will respond at all off leash? If you're still correcting for pulling, or for no sit in the heel position what makes you think he is going to respond at all off leash?
So folks, don't rush the off leash training. Keep that leash on indoors and outdoors (only when you can supervise so he doesn't get caught on something) and only start off leash work when your dog is working consistently (no correction) on leash. I'm not making this up guys. I've proven it, I live it. Take your dog off the leash too early and you will make off leash training impossible. Just pay your dues and put in the time.
Problem solving and Getting Back to the Basics
All advanced commands are based on the basics: (1) dog attention, (2) sit, (3) down, (4) stay and (5) come. When having a problem with an advanced exercise, break it down into small segments. Once the dog is performing each segment separately, put them together to form the exercise. For example, in the beginning the sit/stay is performed standing directly in front of your dog. As the dog understands the exercise you move further and further back. If you are up to a long distance sit/stay and your dog is breaking the stay, take a step (or many steps) closer to the dog until he is doing a close stay - for an extended period of time - perfectly.
If teaching the Drop on Recall, break the segment into 5 segments: (1) down from sit/stay (15 feet distance), (2) down from sit/stay (15 feet distance) then call the dog, (3) come followed by a down command and return to the dog (in the down), (4) 2nd come command after the down, (5) drop on recall w/ finish.
If you are still having problems at the basic level, the problem is either lack of attention or the correction is not a deterrent enough to stop the disobedience. Begin all training sessions with dog attention and make sure there are not too many distractions in your training area for teaching a new exercise.
If attention is not the problem then your correction is. A correction should occur as soon as the undesirable behavior happens. A correction should immediately stop the bad behavior if the dog understands the exercise. If the dog is making the same mistakes and he knows the exercise, then the consequence to disobedience is not a deterrent. You must then step up the level of correction and praise immediately for the correct behavior.
Remember, if your dog believes he can get away with disobedience he will always attempt it. Simple disobedience seems unimportant but the lesson the dog is learning is that disobedience doesn't have a consequence.
Exercise & Mental Stimulation
All dogs are working animals from the Rat Terrier (hunter) to the Saint Bernard (rescuer). Home alone for 8 hours is just not enough physical or mental stimulation. A big back yard is not going to solve behavioral problems (chewing, jumping, running away, etc.). Dogs are pack animals and if you don't have another dog, you're its pack. Seclusion in the yard is punishment because your dog wants to be near you. Behavioral problems will not be solved but more may rear their ugly heads. Dogs do need exercise (walks, swimming, retrieving) but your dog would much rather exercise with you than by itself in your yard. A pure bred Labrador is going to demand more physical exercise than a Maltese but both need their play time and exercise.
But exercise and no mental stimulation will make your dog crazy. The working instinct in your dog demands for it to use its brain. And if you don't allow your dog to use its brain for good behavior you can believe it will use it for bad behavior. Obedience not only teaches your dog self-control but also allows it to think and respond, i.e. using its mind.
I believe a dog needs a minimum of 40 minutes to 1 hour of exercise (retrieve, running, etc.) a day and a ½ of training a day. All exercise or all work will not control bad behavior. A happy medium of both will make your dog happy and for God's sake - let him be a dog.
Treat Your Dog Like a Dog
When you adopt or buy a puppy/dog and bring it into your home, it is important that you remember to treat it like a dog. Many behavioral problems are environmental. Admit it it’s your fault. Stop blaming the breeder, the breed and everyone else under the sun and take responsibility for your mistakes. You’re the one who created the monster. Yes, some behavioral problems have to do with genetics (and can be controlled early on) but most are learned from the owners. If your dog is exhibiting some unwanted behavior it is the time to analyze how you treat him. Here are some behavioral type of problems. Jumping – the main problem is as a puppy you carried him. It is extremely annoying to see someone carrying a Lab or Shepherd around. This is going to be a big dog that wants to jump and be near your face as if you were carrying them. Aggressive play – how many times do I have to say keep the leash on your dogs at all times. You are perpetuating the problem by allowing him to get away with it. Fear – stop making him shy or a crybaby. If he doesn’t want to go up the stairs, too bad. Make him, especially if he is going to be a big dog. If he is afraid of people or dogs too bad, give him a command and make him obey (strangers don’t have to pet him and he doesn’t have to play with other dogs but if you told him to down & stay and he better do it). Finicky eaters – hey they lick their butts and will eat cat or dog feces, how finicky can they be? If they don’t want to eat what’s being served – too bad.
Yes, your dog is part of your family but when dealing with him treat him like a dog (like his mother would) not a human. They don’t think like humans and they don’t feel like humans (if they did they certainly wouldn’t lick their butts) don’t try to associate how you feel with how they should feel – its not the same.
If you have to ask....your dog's not ready. Off leash
problems occur when owners test their dogs to see if they will listen. While
still a pup the owner will tell the dog to come, the dog will look at them like
they are crazy and understand that when he is off the leash there is no
correction and their master cannot control the dog's behavior. I firmly believe
no dog should ever be off the leash (indoors and outdoors) until it is 1 year
old (including potty time). Puppies are constantly testing their owners and if
proven that maybe they can get away with it they will try and disobey. The
leash is your way of controlling your dog's behavior, take it off and you lose
control (its like driving without a steering wheel). Yes, it’s inconvenient.
Yes, your dog might chew it. Yes, you do have a life outside of training your
dog. Yes, take that leash off and you will have a miserable time training your
dog off leash - guaranteed.
Off leash training should not begin until the dog is responding on leash in a
consistent manner, without a correction. Basic common sense, if the dog's is
not responding perfectly on leash what makes you think he will respond at all
off leash? No testing is needed. If you're still correcting for a straight
come, for pulling, or for no sit in the heel position what makes you think he is
going to respond at all off leash?
Don't rush the off leash training. Keep that leash on indoors and outdoors (only when you can supervise so he doesn't get caught on something) and only start off leash work when your dog is working consistently (no correction) on leash. I'm not making this up guys. I've proven it; I live it with my dogs and my client’s dogs. Don't make off leash training hard. Just pay your dues and put in the time.
Nutrition
Dog food and nutrition affect your dog’s trainability, coat, attitude, etc. The wrong food can make a dog have to go to the bathroom more and can make him hyper and unmanageable. The first ingredient listed in dog food is what it mainly consists of. Supermarket foods (puppy or dog chow) have corn as the #1 ingredient. We all know how corn comes out. Corn is filler, unlike poultry, poultry-by-product meal or chicken, and is not digestible. A high protein food must have a digestible protein source or it will make your dog hyper, make clean up difficult and make his coat dull. Grocery brands also contain a lot of salt and sugars so to preserve the food and give it a longer shelf life. Premium foods like Eukanuba, Iams, Nutro or Royal Canine do not contain a lot of sugar. Hence, your dog will not have excess energy and he will be able to concentrate more during training, i.e. he will have a longer attention span. Also, the protein source is highly digestible so clean up is easier.
Jumping is one of the hardest habits to break because dogs learn it at a very
young age. Once puppies begin to stand and walk (about 3 wks old) they learn
that when their mother returns to the whelping box, if they jump on her she will
regurgitate food. So jumping is a good thing. Then when you buy or adopt your
puppy you hold him near your face either to cuddle or to comfort or console him
and this reinforces the idea that good things happen when your puppy is near
your face. Then he grows up and jumping is not as fun as it used to be. Also,
your dog doesn’t understand that he can jump when you are wearing jeans but
can’t jump when you are dressed for work. Or that he can jump on you but not
your child or a stranger.
How to break the habit: Always have a collar and leash on so you can correct him to either side when he jumps up. If you are having guests over, keep your dog outside or in a cage until the commotion settles down. Then once your guests are seated bring your dog inside on a leash to keep him from jumping. If your dog jumps on you when you come home from work, have a spare leash in your car. Loop it over your dog’s head and correct him. Once your dog is trained and listening well you can avoid a correction for jumping by giving him a command to sit and then correct him for not sitting.
It’s a hard habit to break but it is certainly not impossible if you are consistent and you always correct for a jump. Remember that you don’t want to use the command ‘down’, ‘down is for lying down. The command to use is ‘Off’.
Barking
Many dogs bark for attention, or for activity (exercise them) or they have learned that barking at their owner or any other human illicits an action, usually petting. Hey, who’s training whom? Barking is irritating. The other dogs in class get excited and then humans who have to listen to it can’t hear themselves think. Teaching your dog to speak is not a great idea because they don’t shut up. They will bark for everything, to go outside, for a cookie, boredom or just to hear themselves bark. A puppy barking to play is cute, a 1-year-old dog barking to ‘play’ at every dog that enters the vet’s office is annoying. But then there are some dogs that bark when you leave them (separation anxiety or loneliness or boredom) and some breeds that are just ‘yippy’.
How to break the habit: NEVER TEACH YOUR DOG TO BARK. If he’s barking on the leash correct him and tell him ‘quiet’. If he barks when you leave the house or when he is in the yard the only solution would be a “Bark Collar”. There are many on the market – the only one that works is the Bark Limiter by TriTronics (and we’ve tried them all). The correction is given based on the movement of the dog’s vocal cords. When he barks the collar will correct him, similar to static electricity. The correction can be as low or as high as needed.
Drop It
Teaching your dog to drop something in his mouth may save his life one day. Most dogs are scavengers and you never know what they will pick up when walking. Dogs by nature do not want to give anything up but if the “Alpha” dog wants it, the “Alpha” (i.e. you) should get it. Begin teaching this exercise w/ toys and bones. As the dog has the bone in its mouth, stand up straight and give the command ‘drop’. Do not attempt to reach for the bone or tug it from his mouth, you’ll lose. If he does not release the bone correct him as you would for a ‘sit’ command. The correction should be hard enough to cause his mouth to open. When the bone drops from his mouth praise him and pull him away from the bone. Give him the ‘sit/stay’ command and pick up the object.
If your dog believes you are his ‘alpha’ or leader he will willingly give something up to you. Remember that the ‘Alpha’ dog only has to walk towards the carcass for the rest of the pack to scatter. If your dog doesn’t want to release it is because he doesn’t feel you are his ‘alpha’. If he were living in a pack the ‘alpha’ dog would severely punish him for his disrespect.
Return to top of pageWell, there is no cure for chewing. Dogs chew for different reasons – but the two main reasons are boredom and stress. If there was a way to teach your dog not to chew while you are at work or to stop chewing – I’d be a millionaire. The only way to stop chewing is to eliminate the problem by way of a crate or outside kennel. If the problem is boredom, training and daily interactive exercise w/ you (retrieve or tug) for at least an hour every evening should lessen it. If the problem is stress, training and exercise will certainly help but some dogs have separation anxiety and depending on the level (if the dog is hurting himself) he may need to be seen by a Vet. I have seen some dogs get better when a second/calm dog is added to the house or a dog walker is used. But most dogs will just out grow it. Some times at a year old and some times longer than that.
Training Your Puppy To Be a Dog Your Can Live With
· Always use a cage when you are not at home or cannot supervise your puppy.
· Always have a correction collar and leash on your dog when you can supervise him.
· Never carry your puppy. This will make jumping extremely hard to break.
· Keep him off of all furniture (only the leaders of the pack are allowed up).
· Never allow him to sleep in your bedroom (he is not your equal and shouldn’t sleep with you).
· Always feed after the family has eaten (the leader of the pack always eats first).
· Never initiate affection or petting unless you are giving a command first (i.e. ‘sit’ for a pat on the head), make him work for your praise
· Always initiate play time - don’t allow your dog to demand playtime by bringing you a toy.
· Do not pet or praise him too much unless you are training. Ignore them the other times so he understands your life doesn’t surround around him and training is something good.
· Only allow play outside. Teach him to be calm in the house so when people are visiting he will not get too excited.
· The Down/stay is a calming exercise and will teach him to be calm. Always do a Down/stay when you eating, watching TV or reading the paper.
· Each command must be followed up with a correction if your dog doesn’t respond to it. Don’t let him think he is going to get away with double commands.
· Use normal conversation tone when commanding; his mother’s growl is low and guttural.
· Don’t push him into situations he finds fearful. Let him get used to things on his own but don’t make a big deal of it. If he is frightened of stairs take it one step at a time.
· Don’t sympathize or try to reassure him. He may take your good intentions as praise.
· Don’t console him for fear or pain. His mother wouldn’t, ignore it and he will understand that it is not a big deal.
· Don’t allow him to get away with aggression with anyone or anything (i.e. other dogs, people) The “Alpha” protects the pack and its territory. Another dog in the pack that does so is challenging the “Alpha” for that leadership position. Don’t allow your dog to think he is “Alpha” and that it is his job. If you give your dog a command he will believe you are taking control of the situation and he doesn’t have to. If your dog has confidence in your ability as “Alpha” he will always obey your commands because doing so shows respect to the “Alpha”.
· Treat him like a dog. Many behavioral problems are caused by environment (not genetics). If you treat him like a human he will not understand his place in your household and will cause behavioral problems like fear biting, aggression, destruction, separation anxiety, etc. Treat him like another dog or his mother would.
· Give him plenty of exercise. Exercise and mental stimulation (training) make a happy and healthy dog.
· Train daily and once your dog is responding well go to different areas with different distractions and train.
· Constant petting or cooing will make your dog needy. Let him be and he will let your visitors be. Remember that his mother wouldn’t be constantly kissing him.
· If you don’t like something, end it. Don’t allow it to continue and make sure your correction is strong enough to deter the behavior from happening again. His mother would give one growl and then she would bite. Make a lasting impression with your correction.
· Do not coddle your dog. If you gave a command make him respond even if he is acting fearful.
Unfortunately, you do not need any type of certification to become a dog trainer. There are ‘organizations’ that dog trainers can belong to but membership does not necessarily mean the person can train dogs and unfortunately, many trainers just talk a ‘good game’.
When searching for a dog trainer, ask him/her what he/she has done with his own dogs. Just because his dog is well mannered, does not necessarily mean he can train your dog. I not only I teach my own dogs basic behavior but also I am constantly competing with my dogs at obedience and Schutzhund competitions. I put my methods of training to the test of knowledgeable judges and expert trainers each time I trial. Also, I have clients who compete with their own dogs, therefore, my talents and techniques are being tested by knowledgeable persons under whom my clients trial. [Don't forget to read Beth's complete resume and visit her All-Stars Page].
I have seen/ heard many trainers brag about what they can do or what they have done and I have heard trainers use big psychological terms for certain dog’s behavior that was very incorrect. Their resume should speak for itself. I don’t want to hear about what should be done, I want to see the person work with a dog and even a few dogs and get immediate results. Even though you may not be interested in competition, you want someone who is not afraid to let his peers judge him and grade his techniques. And you want a person who is unafraid to ‘show’ you what he can do with his own dog and with your dog and still show you a happy, obedient and well-adjusted dog.
Not everyone can take any breed and/or problem and work with it. That is where experience and expertise come into play. A good trainer can work with all types of problems and breeds. And a good trainer will use whatever equipment or reward will work for your dog. Training methods should be adaptable depending on the different situations. Each dog, like each person is different, if a trainer ‘pigeon holes’ your dog into the same category as all of the dog’s he trains, then he will be doing a disservice both to you and your dog. Disregarding a type of collar or reward will limit the training of certain dogs and can de-motivate a dog or worse yet make a dog more unruly.
Selecting the highest price trainer does not guarantee that you will have the best trainer nor does selecting the cheapest price mean the other trainer is ‘over priced’. Ask the following questions when looking for a trainer:
How much experience have you had training dogs?
What are your accomplishments (dog shows, etc)?
Have you or your dogs won any trophies?
Do you train all breeds?
Do you train all problems?
Can I see your resume?
Can you give me referrals from clients?
What accomplishments have your students achieved?
What methods do you utilize (positive only, correction and positive, clicker, adaptable to each dog’s behavior)?
What type of equipment do you use?
What is your experience with aggressive dogs?
What is your area of expertise?
Can I watch you train a class?
And:
Observe if the dogs in the class are happy and obedient.
See if the trainer is attentive to problem dogs and if the problems are addressed and solved.
See if the trainer is taking an active role in the training of the dogs or just commanding the ‘owners’.
See if the dogs enjoy class and want to be there.
See if the trainer’s dog is attentive to it’s handler, waiting to work or to be asked to work.
Proper Use of Training Equipment
Before using any type of collar on your dog, you must be trained on how to use it by a professional dog trainer (please read How To Pick a Dog Trainer). This way you are sure to get optimal results from your training sessions. Most importantly, when using any new training collar, it is important that your dog wears the collar even when not training. Most people will put the training collar on their dog when training or when the dog is misbehaving. What you are teaching your dog is that when he is wearing the collar, he must behave because it is only then that you make him behave or give him a correction for misbehavior. The dog then becomes ‘collar wise’ and when the collar is off; the dog either does not respond to your commands or misbehaves.
Initially, when using a new collar, the dog may sulk or become mellow while wearing it. This is normal behavior. If you make a conscience effort in putting the new training collar on your dog every day and only removing it for bed time, your dog will change his behavior and his new ‘habit’ will be to respond to your commands. The collar then becomes a favorite necklace that you may wear daily; you don’t even realize you are wearing the necklace. When your dog’s new training collar becomes his ‘favorite necklace’ you will find that the habit of responding to commands and being well mannered is your dog’s new habit and that your dog will not only obey but will also play, eat and have fun when the collar is on.
Personal
Protection Training:
Controlling and Training your Body Guard
Most people don’t understand the difference between having an aggressive dog that is reacting on his own judgment and out of control or a dog that is being raised as a personal protection dog.
With any type of aggression, your dog must think you are taking control of the situation and he is your ‘back up’. A dog that is aggressive and will react on his own must be under a command and corrected for breaking that command but not for being aggressive toward a stranger.
Many people who buy a dog for
protection think they can never correct their dog for barking or growling or
raising its’ fur to a stranger. What good is a personal protection dog that you
cannot control and must keep away from strangers? What good is a personal
protection/aggressive dog that you cannot take out in public or walk in your
neighborhood for fear of ‘meeting’ someone on the street and not being able to
control him?
A stranger may seem friendly at first, and once he gains your confidence and you
put your dog away, may become ‘not so friendly’. Also, if your dog is aggressive
by nature or if you have done personal protection with your dog, you don’t want
him to ‘meet’ everyone nor have strangers touch him. He is not a ‘greeter’ he
shouldn’t think he should trust people who are not permanent fixtures in your
life. By keeping him under a command, he is learning to ignore the stranger but
keep a watchful eye on the person and you should tell the person, when asked,
that your dog IS NOT friendly. I would never allow a personal protection dog,
or an aggressive dog, to meet anyone that was not living in my house; they may
get hurt or your dog may stop believing you have control of situations.
If you follow my advice, when you need him, your dog is right there at your side and if the person has ‘bad intentions’ he will not attempt anything while the dog is near you. He is your ‘body guard’ and should act the way a human bodyguard would, stay in the background and watch.
Also, many dogs will not get aggressive, even if trained, with someone whom YOU have allowed in their life or allowed to have control of your dog (i.e. reprimand him, walk him, play with him). The relationship is established between the two and your dog will not understand that this person is no longer welcome.
This is how I recommend you handle your personal protection or aggressive dog if your dog is in your yard and a worker is there to speak with you or you are walking him down the street and you meet a stranger. Your dog is barking or reacts to the stranger: (1) praise your dog (2) call him to your side and (3) place him in a sit/stay at your side. While you speak to the person, your dog should be in a sit/stay at your side and remain there until released. He should not bark or growl, a sit/stay is just that, no barking or growling. If your dog barks, growls or breaks the command, he should be corrected and then re-commanded to Sit/Stay, this way he is being corrected for breaking a Sit/stay and not being defensive. If your dog does not have the training to be that close to the person, place him in either a sit or down about 4 feet behind you and keep yourself in between your dog and the person but keep an eye on your dog.
If you follow my advice your dog will (1) understand he must wait for your judgment or an aggressive move on behalf of the stranger, (2) understand that he is not being corrected for being aggressive but rather being corrected for breaking your command when there is no aggressive move on behalf of the stranger and (3) be able to be out in public and around strangers and be your bodyguard. This will make it very clear to your dog how you want him to behave and when there is no question in his mind, or inconsistency on your part, your dog will not only be well mannered but there for you if you need him.
The sport of Dogs is growing by the minute. Every time I pick up a dog magazine I read about a new sport or activity for owners and their dogs. What was a past time enjoyed by a few is now a past time enjoyed by a few million. People are now realizing that owning a dog is not only about feeding, giving fresh water and walking but about utilizing the natural instincts in their specific breed for fun, exercise and for mental stimulation. All dogs are working animals and your average person now realizes that if their dog is mentally and physically stimulated, many normal, household problems will fall by the wayside.
There are too many dog sports to mention but here are few of them; fly ball, luring, agility, obedience, hunting and retrieving, flushing, search and rescue, water rescue, weight pulling, sledding, disc catching, diving, Schutzhund, herding, etc. When I think about each sport, I can see the particular breeds working and I can imagine each breed doing what it loves to do and does best, for example, I can see the Labrador diving into the water or the Newfoundland pulling a row boat to shore. Not only can I see the dog but I can see the proud owner standing behind the dog and I can imagine the hours the owner spent instructing that dog and fine tuning his skills and instincts to give his top performance that day. No matter what sport you see a dog competing in, you must not forgot that the root of his performance is Obedience. Obedience to his owner to accomplish the task at hand in a timely fashion with the expertise and precision he was taught to complete it with.
Though there are so many dog sports that I find interesting, unfortunately, do not have the time to involve myself in all of them. My life is full of so many dogs and their owners that in my past time the only sport I am able to enjoy with my dogs is the sport of Schutzhund. Schutzhund, the German translates into “protection dog” but that was not the intention of the creation of the sport. Schutzhund was created as a temperament test for German Shepherds by the man responsible for creating the breed, Max von Stephenhaus. Max wanted to set a standard for the German Shepherd Breed for temperament and mental stability and developed this test called Schutzhund. Schutzhund is a test of obedience, olfactory and courage. A dog competing in Schutzhund should be able to obey commands, follow a trail and protect his owner if needed. The dog should also be safe to have around other people and dogs and be able to overcome all distractions to obey his owner and do his job. Schutzhund is divided into three phases: Obedience, Tracking and Protection. But the key aspect of all three phases is Obedience. A well breed dog should have all of the instincts required to accomplish all of the above without the handler or owner, it is the handler who adds the obedience and teaches the dog the self control to accomplish all of the tasks at hand according to the handler’s time frame and schedule. And that is what separates the pups from the dogs. I see many people enter Schutzhund competitions and they brag about how hard their dog bites, only to fail the competition because the dog refused to ‘out’ or release the arm on command. Instincts and drive are great but Obedience is going to win the competition. If the dog has all of the instincts in the world, and the drive to work in any type of weather or in any condition but refuses to obey his handler, he is worthless in the sport. The dog that wins the competition may not be the strongest dog on the field, but he performed with precision and expertise and obedience to his handler’s commands; and the obedience is what made him a great dog deserving of winning the competition.
And, the same is true for any dog sport. Most well bred dogs can accomplish the tasks at hand, but each dog must wait for the release or command from the owner to begin and then to end each exercise and to do it with precision. The drive is there, the obedience is taught. I hear many people belittle other sports because it doesn’t require as much upon the dogs. Sure a retriever is going to jump into the water, big deal. Yes, it is a big deal because he did it on the command of his handler and not when he wanted to dive into the water. Before I competed in Schutzhund I competed in AKC Obedience. Well, I had many Schutzhund people laugh at me, because the obedience is different. And then I had AKC people say that their Obedience is harder. Obedience is obedience, not easier for one or the other.
Obedience is the foundation for everything, from not going into the kitchen garbage can, to not jumping on people when they enter your home, to biting a man’s arm an releasing it on command from the handler. Too often I hear my colleagues wishing for a point in their career when they only have to work with dogs and people who want to do high competition with their dogs. I only ask myself why? When obedience is the foundation, and if you have a strong foundation, who knows who you will be working with when that puppy grows up? And, the obedience shouldn’t be different for someone who is training a pet and someone who is raising a puppy for herding. Ultimately, both clients are looking for the same, a well mannered companion who obeys commands.
Pet owners are now more involved in their dog’s life. Even if they do not compete on any level, most owners are out and about with their dogs; shopping, to parks, to dog runs, etc. The key to make those trips enjoyable is Obedience. In my Basic Obedience classes I teach good manners, Sit, Down, Stay, Heel, Come, Stand, not jumping, etc. These are all the same commands that are used in each and every sport. Each time I see a young puppy in my class, I wonder what that puppy may grow up to be. Maybe the adults in the house have no desire to compete, but their young son or daughter may be interested in a sport of some kind and if that is the case, their instruction is going to be very important at that level.
So, the next time you are watching television and you see a police dog searching for narcotics, or an avalanche dog searching for people on a mountain, take the time and think about the hours the handler spent fine tuning the dog’s skills and teaching obedience. Think about that dog as a young puppy in a puppy kindergarten class learning sit, or down or stay and how those skills taught at such a young age impacted this dog and helped him become the dog he is today. It’s all about Obedience and the willingness to please, and that is why they are called ‘man’s best friend’.
Training consists of (1) teaching your dog commands and (2) re-teaching him new behaviors to replace bad habits. In essence, training is creating habits in your dog. Going outdoors to relieve themselves, sitting on command, heeling next to you on a leash, stealing food from the counters, jumping on people; they are all habits.
There are three very important phases to training dogs: (A) The Teaching Phase; (B) the Correction Phase and (C) The proofing phase.
The Teaching Phase:
This phase consists of creating the association between a command and an action on the dog's part. This phase is sometimes taught by you, the owner, because the completion of the action on the dog’s part elicits some type of reward; i.e. either a toy, praise, treat or all three. For example, you give the command Sit and raise a treat above your dog’s head, he sits because he is ‘following’ the treat and you praise him and reward him with the treat for doing so. After some repetition, the dog understands that when he is commanded to Sit, he will receive a treat or reward of some type once he places his ‘rump’ on the ground.
In order to have success in this phase must acknowledge his correct response to your command with praise and a reward of some type, food or ball or toys. Your dog’s reward should be his most favorite thing.
This phase can also be self-taught by the dog for a bad habit. For example; the dog smells food, he jumps on the kitchen counter and steals the food on the counter. In essence, the dog just taught himself that if he jumps on the counter he can self-reward himself for jumping by stealing food.
The amount of time it will take you to complete this phase depends upon the command being taught, the amount of time that you have to teach this command and the intelligence of your dog. Each command you teach will go through a Teaching Phase. My recommendation is that the Teaching Phase is done in a place that has minimal distractions so your dog can focus on your command and learn what he should be doing.
The Correction Phase:
Before entering this phase in dog training, it is very important that you, as the handler and owner, are 100% certain that the dog understands what you want of him and that your dog is deciding that his response to the command is not important. If your dog is unsure of the command or what you want from him, then you need to spend more time in the Teaching Phase. When you are in this phase the reward is given intermittently and the dog does not see the reward.
Sometimes the reward is just not enticing enough to a dog to respond to a command or the dog believes that his choice of misbehavior outweighs the reward in which you will give him. It is during this phase that you are teaching your dog that his response to obedience commands is not optional.
When your dog misbehaves or is disobedient, you must immediately reprimand him verbally and with some type of compulsion if necessary. The correction should immediately stop the disobedience. If your dog returns to this behavior, then your correction was not meaningful enough. If a verbal correction is enough and your dog does not return to the disobedient behavior, then there is no reason to physically correct; but if your dog does return to being disobedient you didn’t make a big enough impression on him. It doesn’t matter what method of compulsion you use as long as your dog responds, respects and learns from the correction.
You know you are ready to move on to the next phase when you are training with your dog and he always responds quickly and without a correction to a command; only using verbal praise and without a physical reward. If you are still correcting your dog through most of your training session, you are not ready for distractions.
The Proofing Phase:
It is during this phase that you will be using distractions and new environments to teach your dog that training is a way of life not something that is done at a certain place or at a certain time. In the Teaching Phase you taught your dog in an area with minimal distractions, now that you are 100% certain that your dog understands the command you begin to add distractions; slowly add distractions. Some dogs have problems in new areas without distractions. That is because the NEW AREA IS A DISTRACTION. If that is the case, take baby steps in that new area and then once the dog is proficient in that area with distractions, off to another new area but again take baby steps. You want to train in areas that are populated by people and other animals. Sometimes, it only takes one dog at a distance to distract your dog, you must know what is going to be distracting to your dog and how close in proximity you can get to the distraction before your dog completely loses control. Sometimes it is just adding another person on a walk that will distract your dog from the Heel command. If that is the case, don’t go to the park where you will not only have the distraction of the person walking with you but also children, other dogs, bicycles, wildlife, etc.
Conclusion:
It is important that you take ample time in moving from each phase so your dog completely understands what it is that you want from him. If your dog is confused, this will lead to mistakes not disobedience to commands. Don’t be afraid to take a step back in training to convince yourself that your dog understands what you want from him and/or to move slowly from step to step to ensure your dog’s success. The goal is to keep the training fun and positive; if your dog is at all confused training then ceases to be fun and instead becomes riddled with stress.Too often I watch owners handling their dogs in a class or training sessions and after one or two corrections the dog’s tail is down, the wag is gone, and the dog is sulking through the exercises. As a trainer, I know the reason for the sulking. However, someone with minimal experiences immediately states that the dog is upset with the owner or that he doesn’t like to train. Sometimes, I can actually see the conflict between owner and dog and not dog and trainer as the owner sees.
When a dog is trained using clear communication, the training excels. The idea of clear communication is a phrase of confusion for most people. Ivan Bablanov created a video series based on teaching clear communication to dogs and their handlers; everyone talks about training b